![]() ![]() This technique works best on design elements that have straight edges. So I just eyeball the parallel-ness of the thread compared to the previous stitch and, to end the stitch, I insert my needle where the thread passes over the edge of the design. Where it crosses over the far edge is where I need to end the stitch. To ensure the stitches lie parallel, I stretch the working thread over to the other edge, under tension. I just line up one mark with the previous stitch, and start the next stitch where the second mark is. Now, I can use that little piece of paper to help me determine the spacing between subsequent lattice stitch. You can see a little scrap of paper there on the fabric, where I’ve marked the spacing between the first two lattice stitches. One thing you can do to help with spacing is use a small scrap of paper that you’ve marked. This will set the direction of the subsequent long lattice stitches – every stitch you make after the first one should be made so that it lines up parallel to that first stitch.Īfter your first stitch is in, it’s just a matter of spacing the long lattice stitches evenly and making sure that they’re all parallel to each other. The first stitch is important! Always start your first long lattice stitch somewhere in the middle of the area you’re going to cover, where it can stretch over the whole design space uninterrupted. (I’ll write more about this leaf and my thought processes while I worked through it later, when I give you a project update on Late Harvest.)įor now, we’ll chat about two methods that you can use for getting the lattice part right. This particular section involves a lattice grid stitched over a leaf that’s filled with long & short stitch. I was working through a portion of Late Harvest last week. In fact, these methods will help you eliminate marking the lattice lines on your fabric first, even if you can mark your fabric – and that’s a good thing, because designs markings on fabric don’t always come off! Two Methods to Ensure Straight, Even Lattice Fillings This is a question that’s come up several times, and last week, I had the perfect opportunity to take some photos to show you two methods that can help you space straight lattice stitches, when you can’t mark your fabric. The Problem with Lattice Fillingsīut lattice fillings, especially those worked over other stitching, can present a problem for the embroiderer: how can I assure an even spacing and straight lines on lattice stitches, if I can’t mark the fabric? The lattice provides a framework to hold those stitches in place, while at the same time visually enhancing the filled area. If you look at my Very Old how-to video for lattice work, in the sample (pictured above), the background behind the lattice is filled with smooth surface satin stitch. They also work great as a grid to hold down long areas of surface satin stitch. What I like best about lattice fillings, which are commonly seen in traditional crewel work and Jacobean style embroideries, is that they’re a magnificent way to fill a large space with pattern and color. There are so many possibilities that lattice fillings offer the embroiderer! They can be wildly patterned they can be simple. ![]() They can be colorful they can be monochrome. There’s just something about large (or small) areas on embroidery that are filled with lattice stitches. Today, we’re going to talk about lattice filling stitches and I’m going to share a couple tips to help you achieve evenly spaced, straight lattice stitches without marking up your fabric. For those of you who have worked my Lattice Jumble Sampler, this might not surprise you.
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